150 Years of Chinese Food in America

This essay illustrates the role of the Chinese-American restaurant menu at both ends of cultural appropriation––both as recipient and as self-orientalizing propagator. It cites academic articles in the areas of Asian American studies, food studies, sociology, as well as a number of menu archives (including the NYPL collection) and personal photographs of menus. This resource is important because it directly addresses parallels among Chinese restaurant menus, public perception of Chinese-Americans, and Chinese-American history. This essay is one chapter of the book Chop Suey and Sushi from Sea to Shining Sea, which has multiple essays regarding the cultural politics behind East Asian cuisines and their evolution in the United States. Since Tunç ’s essay also directly references our data set, it lays critical groundwork for our project to build upon through digital analysis.

This source contains a thorough history of U.S. policy and data in regards immigration from China to the United States over the last three hundred years. The National Archive compiled information from the U.S. district courts, Bureau of the Census Record Group, Public Health Service Group, U.S. States Attorney’s Office, Court of Appeals and State Marshal Service. This article provides a valuable overview of legal limitations and documentation of Chinese immigration to the U.S. that will allow us to contextualize the Chinese population we are studying in U.S. history. We can look at the national census and immigration records to track periods of Chinese population growth in the United States over time and compare that to the prevalence of Chinese cuisine in the New York Menu Data. One interesting connection would be to look at the surge in Chinese immigration after the repeal of the Chinese Exclusion Act in 1943 and compare that to food menu data for the corresponding years.

This paper argues how an ethnic culture has to balance between being unique and authentic and being comfortable and Americanized in order to become a popular trend. Chinese food, as popular as it has always been, accomplishes both of these expectations. The paper used both previous papers and articles, and studies of four Chinese restaurants to support the argument. The source provides an academic and concrete insights into the evolution and adaptation of Chinese foods, and specifies the dishes that was used as a transition and introduction for Americans to get used to, as well as the food being served after the Americans become more used to Chinese foods, such as dishes with tofu, green onion, and ginger. It also points out the Chinese foods that are popular in mainland China and Taiwan but are no way popular in the US, such as the steamed fish. Overall, this source inspires us to think why particular ethnic cuisines or cultures are favored while the others don’t.

“The Sour Side of Chinese Restaurants” argues that despite the popularity of Chinese restaurants in the United States, Chinese restaurateurs face incredibly difficult circumstances: workplace discrimination, social prejudice, and health regulations plague the community. The essays in this book combined a variety of disciplines including “history, sociology, anthropology, ethnography, economics, phenomenology, journalism, food studies, and film and literary criticism” and cite the relevant sources as facts arise. The multidisciplinary approach allows for a fascinating analysis of Chinese cuisine with a focus on the history of prejudice that occurred when immigrants first came to the U.S. and the evolution of that social climate. This essay will allow us to better understand the Chinese perspective with regards to cuisine and the immigrant experience, as well as the social restrictions placed on Chinese culture. With our data specifically, we can better look for connections between the spread of restaurants/dishes and the eventual integration of Chinese cuisine into the American culinary landscape.

This New York Times News Article from 1883 is a primary source that provides a startling example of published racism against a Chinese restaurant owner. The article takes the side of Dr. Charles Kaemmer who accuses “Chinamen” living in Manhattan of cooking and eating rats to the “wrath” of local Chinese Immigrants who denied the charge. The language used to describe the doctor is positive and supportive, while the characterization of Chinese immigrants is extremely negative and condemning. This source is a single example of a larger trend of the discrimination and social isolation faced by Chinese Immigrants in New York and beyond.

In “The Hunt For General Tso” Jennifer Lee discusses how there are more Chinese restaurants in America than McDonalds, Burger Kings, Kentucky Fried Chicken and Wendy’s, combined. She discusses how most foods Americans consider “Chinese” have no connection to China whatsoever. Lee describes this phenomenon in a clear and illustrative way. Besides using many of the anecdotes and facts she mentions, the ease at which she blends facts with storyline inspired how we tried to structure our narrative.

Jessica Larson-Wang’s article “A Brief History of Shark Fin Soup” tells the story of a unique yet controversial dish. It was first introduced to the United States after President Nixon’s 1972 visit to China publicized him consuming the soup and how it has become a delicacy of sorts. This overview works as an example of changing attitudes towards more traditional Chinese dishes as the status of Chinese-Americans evolved over time.